Click to go to Dave de Klerk's Gardening in Rooiels - a very comprehensive guide to how he has developed his garden. It has 150 pages that include detailed growing notes and photos of every one of the 123 plant species in his garden. We are fortunate to have a guide with so much detail including both what worked, and what didnt. Dave is encouraging all Rooiels gardeners to provide input on their experiences - especially growing those plants that are indigenous to Rooiels. Please send us an email at [email protected] with any tips, notes or photos you have to share.
However we have been warned by botanists and ecologists that we should try to avoid using hybrid plants if possible. We do not police this in any way, but it does pose a risk to the fynbos if you plant hybrids which then cross pollinate with indigenous species. LINK to an article by Tony Rebello on the impact on proteas. We understand there are similar dangers for ericas and other Rooiels indigenous species.
There is also Dave's comprehensive Illustrated Guide to the indigenous flowers of Rooiels. It is colour coded and is useful when you are wanting to identify all those plants in and around our beautiful village, or want to check and see which plants are indigenous to Rooiels to include in your garden.
However we have been warned by botanists and ecologists that we should try to avoid using hybrid plants if possible. We do not police this in any way, but it does pose a risk to the fynbos if you plant hybrids which then cross pollinate with indigenous species. LINK to an article by Tony Rebello on the impact on proteas. We understand there are similar dangers for ericas and other Rooiels indigenous species.
There is also Dave's comprehensive Illustrated Guide to the indigenous flowers of Rooiels. It is colour coded and is useful when you are wanting to identify all those plants in and around our beautiful village, or want to check and see which plants are indigenous to Rooiels to include in your garden.
General notes:
Gardening in the traditional sense is not appropriate in Rooiels. The village, situated within the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, calls for a very different approach. We cannot do it better than nature does it, so we need to take stock of what nature does here and, at most, help it along just a little. Here we aren't gardeners, we are facilitators! Take care when chopping back dead branches that you do not exposure too much as they do form protection against salt and wind.
We drive through the village, see a lovely plant and decide that we will plant it in our garden. It's not that simple. We need to take into account the soil, topography and wind conditions on our own plot and then look at what grows there naturally. Nature has already made its selection and we would be well advised to continue with that selection if we want to be successful. A natural continuation of the fynbos as it is in the village is what we need to strive for. We can facilitate by clearing out dead plant material, then chopping it up to form mulching which will help retain moisture; we can plant in new plants where bare patches form; we can eradicate alien plants. We bought into this natural environment for what it is. Don't let's try to "tame" it or change it to something we left behind in the city.
To be an active part of preserving our heritage you are encouraged to grow locally indigenous species as far as possible.
Baie van die spesies gelys sal waarskynlik nie kommersieel beskikbaar wees nie, maar baie behoort wel? Om net spesies van die lyste te gebruik vir tuine kan dit dalk moeilik maak, so dit hang af hoe 'puristies' julle sou wou wees in julle spesifikasies. Sommige van die gelysde spesies is ook klein, nie noodwendig mooi nie en nie geskik vir landscaping nie. Sou julle 'n spesifieke spesielys wou saamstel, sal mens deur die spesielyste werk, kyk watter spesies geskik (en beskikbaar) is, en dalk kyk watter ander (dalk meer ornamentele) spesies mens kan byvoeg daartoe wat inheems is tot die groter area en nie 'n negatiewe impak op die omgewing en omliggende plantegroei gaan he nie.
Die term wat ek sou gebruik om te verduidelik watter plante mense in hulle tuine mag plant sou wees 'locally indigenous' - dit sal endemiese spesies insluit, asook ander spesies wat natuurlik in die area voorkom maar wat ook 'n wyer verspreiding het.
The tips below from gardeners in Cape Town need to be used as broad guidelines, keeping in mind that we are not gardening in a city or town and therefore they don't all apply to Rooiels. Here we try to keep it natural!
Gardening in the traditional sense is not appropriate in Rooiels. The village, situated within the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, calls for a very different approach. We cannot do it better than nature does it, so we need to take stock of what nature does here and, at most, help it along just a little. Here we aren't gardeners, we are facilitators! Take care when chopping back dead branches that you do not exposure too much as they do form protection against salt and wind.
We drive through the village, see a lovely plant and decide that we will plant it in our garden. It's not that simple. We need to take into account the soil, topography and wind conditions on our own plot and then look at what grows there naturally. Nature has already made its selection and we would be well advised to continue with that selection if we want to be successful. A natural continuation of the fynbos as it is in the village is what we need to strive for. We can facilitate by clearing out dead plant material, then chopping it up to form mulching which will help retain moisture; we can plant in new plants where bare patches form; we can eradicate alien plants. We bought into this natural environment for what it is. Don't let's try to "tame" it or change it to something we left behind in the city.
To be an active part of preserving our heritage you are encouraged to grow locally indigenous species as far as possible.
Baie van die spesies gelys sal waarskynlik nie kommersieel beskikbaar wees nie, maar baie behoort wel? Om net spesies van die lyste te gebruik vir tuine kan dit dalk moeilik maak, so dit hang af hoe 'puristies' julle sou wou wees in julle spesifikasies. Sommige van die gelysde spesies is ook klein, nie noodwendig mooi nie en nie geskik vir landscaping nie. Sou julle 'n spesifieke spesielys wou saamstel, sal mens deur die spesielyste werk, kyk watter spesies geskik (en beskikbaar) is, en dalk kyk watter ander (dalk meer ornamentele) spesies mens kan byvoeg daartoe wat inheems is tot die groter area en nie 'n negatiewe impak op die omgewing en omliggende plantegroei gaan he nie.
Die term wat ek sou gebruik om te verduidelik watter plante mense in hulle tuine mag plant sou wees 'locally indigenous' - dit sal endemiese spesies insluit, asook ander spesies wat natuurlik in die area voorkom maar wat ook 'n wyer verspreiding het.
The tips below from gardeners in Cape Town need to be used as broad guidelines, keeping in mind that we are not gardening in a city or town and therefore they don't all apply to Rooiels. Here we try to keep it natural!
For information on gardening in Rooiels, click on Dave de Klerk's book Gardening in Rooiels - it is most useful with detailed tips for 123 plants growing in his garden.
Aloes that grow naturally here
Most aloes do thrive here – but only a few are indigenous to the Kogelberg Biosphere reserve.
Colin C, Walker & Klopper, Ronell & Gideon F, Smith & Gill, Condy. (2015). Aloe succotrina. Flowering Plants of Africa. 64. 26-40.
An interesting review with updated notes on how to grow it by Karen Wall working at the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens –
Aloe succotrina Sanbi
A perfoliata = A. mitriformis
Klipspringer and dassies occasionally eat the roots and stems of the plant. And dassies regularly eat aloe leaf tips! sometimes the whole plant.
Kumara plicitalis – formerly Aloe plicitalis is found in the KBR although none have been recorded in the Rooiels area. Very worthwhile growing if you manage. The dassies ate the big one I bought!
Most aloes do thrive here – but only a few are indigenous to the Kogelberg Biosphere reserve.
Colin C, Walker & Klopper, Ronell & Gideon F, Smith & Gill, Condy. (2015). Aloe succotrina. Flowering Plants of Africa. 64. 26-40.
An interesting review with updated notes on how to grow it by Karen Wall working at the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens –
Aloe succotrina Sanbi
A perfoliata = A. mitriformis
Klipspringer and dassies occasionally eat the roots and stems of the plant. And dassies regularly eat aloe leaf tips! sometimes the whole plant.
Kumara plicitalis – formerly Aloe plicitalis is found in the KBR although none have been recorded in the Rooiels area. Very worthwhile growing if you manage. The dassies ate the big one I bought!
A firewise garden
All plants will burn, but some are less volatile than others. Well-watered plants will not burn as readily as those that are not well maintained. Citrus, coprosma, ice plants (vygies), sedum, echeveria and kalanchoe, with their high moisture content, burn slowly.
Remove all invasive plants such as wattle, pine and gum, as well as exotics, such as bottlebrushes, melaleucas and conifers. These plants burn hotter and fiercer than indigenous fynbos.
Choose from a range of fire-wise indigenous plants, including:
Groundcovers for sunny areas: Aloe brevifolia, arctotis, dymondia, gazania, Hermannia saccifera, Agathosma ovata “Kluitjieskraal” and vygies.
Groundcovers for shady areas: Plectranthus verticillatus, P. neochilus and P. ciliates.
Bulbs: Tulbaghia, agapanthus and watsonia.
Small shrubs: Agathosma serpyllacea, Phylica ericoides, felicia, Natal plum (Carissa macrocarpa), scabiosa, Athanasia dentata.
Shrubs and trees for island beds: Leucadendron salignum, L. conocarpodendron, Protea nitida, P. cynaroides, Cape thatching reed (Elegia tectorum), Erica spp., Salvia spp., wild malva (Pelargonium cucullatum), Felicia echinata, fan aloe, coastal silver oak, wild olive and wild peach.
Hedge plants: Krantz aloe, tick berry (Chrysanthemoides monilifera), dune crowberry (Searsia crenata) and camphor bush (Tarchonanthus camphoratus).
Forest trees for perimeter: Wild almond (Brabejum stellatifolium), rooiels (Cunonia capensis), tree fuchsia (Halleria lucida), Cape holly and Cape beech.
Remove all invasive plants such as wattle, pine and gum, as well as exotics, such as bottlebrushes, melaleucas and conifers. These plants burn hotter and fiercer than indigenous fynbos.
Choose from a range of fire-wise indigenous plants, including:
Groundcovers for sunny areas: Aloe brevifolia, arctotis, dymondia, gazania, Hermannia saccifera, Agathosma ovata “Kluitjieskraal” and vygies.
Groundcovers for shady areas: Plectranthus verticillatus, P. neochilus and P. ciliates.
Bulbs: Tulbaghia, agapanthus and watsonia.
Small shrubs: Agathosma serpyllacea, Phylica ericoides, felicia, Natal plum (Carissa macrocarpa), scabiosa, Athanasia dentata.
Shrubs and trees for island beds: Leucadendron salignum, L. conocarpodendron, Protea nitida, P. cynaroides, Cape thatching reed (Elegia tectorum), Erica spp., Salvia spp., wild malva (Pelargonium cucullatum), Felicia echinata, fan aloe, coastal silver oak, wild olive and wild peach.
Hedge plants: Krantz aloe, tick berry (Chrysanthemoides monilifera), dune crowberry (Searsia crenata) and camphor bush (Tarchonanthus camphoratus).
Forest trees for perimeter: Wild almond (Brabejum stellatifolium), rooiels (Cunonia capensis), tree fuchsia (Halleria lucida), Cape holly and Cape beech.
Tips from eGardens, Newlands Cape Town
One of the many positive attributes of fynbos is that the plants look good for most of the year and although some 60% of fynbos species flower in spring, there are many that will flower throughout the year. Almost all of the shrubs are richly branched and will achieve heights of 1m to 3m.
A fynbos garden should never be formal so, to achieve a natural look these can be interplanted with smaller shrubs, restios and a multitude of lower growing plants such as the spectacular vygies, bulbs and annuals.
Try to mimic nature as closely as possible when planting your fynbos garden and be sure to establish informal natural pathways that meander through the plants so that their beauty can be enjoyed to the fullest.
Cultivation and care: Fynbos thrives in sandy, nutrient poor, acid soil. It is a good idea to test the acidity of the soil, pH5 being ideal. To increase the acidity of the soil pine needles or oak leaves can be dug in and excellent drainage is essential which can be achieved by the addition of sand. Although some fynbos species will grow in semi shade, full sun and good air circulation will ensure optimum growth.
The fynbos garden is generally low maintenance as the plants should not be fertilized and only require water in the winter months once they are established.
Although most fynbos plants have a naturally tidy growth habit they can be lightly pruned if necessary and dead flower heads may be removed after flowering.
Some plant suggestions: It is impossible to give a complete list of the wealth of fynbos plants available but the suggestions below will get you started.
Shrubs
Protea repens (Sugarbush) produces masses of nectar rich flowers of cream, deep pink or red. Reaching a height of 3m, this is an excellent choice as a focal point or as a lovely background for other fynbos plants.
Serruria florida (Blushing bride) is a small, woody, evergreen shrub that bears clusters of exquisite light to deep pink flowers in spring.
Erica grandiflora bears masses of attractive, tubular, bright orange flowers. This vigorous grower reaches a height of 1m and thrives in a hot, dry climate.
Erica spectabilis is one of the showiest and prettiest ericas with delicate pale pink flowers borne in profusion.
Salvia chamelaeagnea (Wild sage) grows to a height of 2m and bears masses of white or sky blue flowers.
Eriocephalus africanus (Wild rosemary) is a most decorative shrub of about 1m in height. The grey needle like leaves have a lovely aroma and when the tiny white flowers go to seed in spring, the whole plant looks like it is covered with cotton wool.
Restios
Elegia stipularis is a small restio that is ideal for the smaller garden as it grows to a height of 500mm - 1m. The flower heads are enclosed by attractive pink sheaths.
Condrapetalum tectorum (Dekriet) is a taller growing variety of restio reaching a height of 1,50m - 2m. This is an excellent accent plant.
Thamnocortus punctatus is a small restio, 400 - 600mm, with an almost fluffy appearance and deep brown, dense, drooping seed heads.
Bulbs
Babiana rubrocyanea (Kelkiewyn) The exquisite cup shaped flowers of this lovely plant are blue with contrasting red centres.
Lachenalia aloides (Cape cowslip) bears beautiful tubular flowers in a variety of shades such as red, yellow, purple, orange, mauve, pink and blue. The rosette- like leaves are often covered with purple spots.
Ornithogalum thyrsoides (Chicerinchee) These popular bulbs bear showy racemes of creamy white, star shaped flowers in spring.
Perennials
Pelargonium cucullatum (Wild geranium) grows to 1m, has large velvety leaves and bears masses of lovely deep mauve flowers.
Felicia amelloides (Blue marguerite) is a bushy perennial bearing a profusion of sky blue daisy flowers with bright yellow centres in spring.
Selago thunbergii (Blue haze) is a 450mm high shrublet that bears graceful plumes of misty blue flowers in spring.
Annuals
Arctotis hirsuta (Namaqualand daisy) is a hardy annual that produces a bold show of colour in spring. The daisy flowers range in colour from white through bright yellow to deep orange.
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Bokbaaivygie) these succulent annuals cover the ground with a profusion of spectacular, jewel like colours at the end of winter.
One of the many positive attributes of fynbos is that the plants look good for most of the year and although some 60% of fynbos species flower in spring, there are many that will flower throughout the year. Almost all of the shrubs are richly branched and will achieve heights of 1m to 3m.
A fynbos garden should never be formal so, to achieve a natural look these can be interplanted with smaller shrubs, restios and a multitude of lower growing plants such as the spectacular vygies, bulbs and annuals.
Try to mimic nature as closely as possible when planting your fynbos garden and be sure to establish informal natural pathways that meander through the plants so that their beauty can be enjoyed to the fullest.
Cultivation and care: Fynbos thrives in sandy, nutrient poor, acid soil. It is a good idea to test the acidity of the soil, pH5 being ideal. To increase the acidity of the soil pine needles or oak leaves can be dug in and excellent drainage is essential which can be achieved by the addition of sand. Although some fynbos species will grow in semi shade, full sun and good air circulation will ensure optimum growth.
The fynbos garden is generally low maintenance as the plants should not be fertilized and only require water in the winter months once they are established.
Although most fynbos plants have a naturally tidy growth habit they can be lightly pruned if necessary and dead flower heads may be removed after flowering.
Some plant suggestions: It is impossible to give a complete list of the wealth of fynbos plants available but the suggestions below will get you started.
Shrubs
Protea repens (Sugarbush) produces masses of nectar rich flowers of cream, deep pink or red. Reaching a height of 3m, this is an excellent choice as a focal point or as a lovely background for other fynbos plants.
Serruria florida (Blushing bride) is a small, woody, evergreen shrub that bears clusters of exquisite light to deep pink flowers in spring.
Erica grandiflora bears masses of attractive, tubular, bright orange flowers. This vigorous grower reaches a height of 1m and thrives in a hot, dry climate.
Erica spectabilis is one of the showiest and prettiest ericas with delicate pale pink flowers borne in profusion.
Salvia chamelaeagnea (Wild sage) grows to a height of 2m and bears masses of white or sky blue flowers.
Eriocephalus africanus (Wild rosemary) is a most decorative shrub of about 1m in height. The grey needle like leaves have a lovely aroma and when the tiny white flowers go to seed in spring, the whole plant looks like it is covered with cotton wool.
Restios
Elegia stipularis is a small restio that is ideal for the smaller garden as it grows to a height of 500mm - 1m. The flower heads are enclosed by attractive pink sheaths.
Condrapetalum tectorum (Dekriet) is a taller growing variety of restio reaching a height of 1,50m - 2m. This is an excellent accent plant.
Thamnocortus punctatus is a small restio, 400 - 600mm, with an almost fluffy appearance and deep brown, dense, drooping seed heads.
Bulbs
Babiana rubrocyanea (Kelkiewyn) The exquisite cup shaped flowers of this lovely plant are blue with contrasting red centres.
Lachenalia aloides (Cape cowslip) bears beautiful tubular flowers in a variety of shades such as red, yellow, purple, orange, mauve, pink and blue. The rosette- like leaves are often covered with purple spots.
Ornithogalum thyrsoides (Chicerinchee) These popular bulbs bear showy racemes of creamy white, star shaped flowers in spring.
Perennials
Pelargonium cucullatum (Wild geranium) grows to 1m, has large velvety leaves and bears masses of lovely deep mauve flowers.
Felicia amelloides (Blue marguerite) is a bushy perennial bearing a profusion of sky blue daisy flowers with bright yellow centres in spring.
Selago thunbergii (Blue haze) is a 450mm high shrublet that bears graceful plumes of misty blue flowers in spring.
Annuals
Arctotis hirsuta (Namaqualand daisy) is a hardy annual that produces a bold show of colour in spring. The daisy flowers range in colour from white through bright yellow to deep orange.
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Bokbaaivygie) these succulent annuals cover the ground with a profusion of spectacular, jewel like colours at the end of winter.
Tips from Alta Barnard who lives at Arabella
Every season has shrubs, bulbs and groundcovers with amazingly colourful flowers and foliage, ranging from soft silvery greys to lime-greens, yellows, reds and browns
Advice when planting Fynbos- Barnard's top seven tips for planting Fynbos in your garden
Every season has shrubs, bulbs and groundcovers with amazingly colourful flowers and foliage, ranging from soft silvery greys to lime-greens, yellows, reds and browns
Advice when planting Fynbos- Barnard's top seven tips for planting Fynbos in your garden
- Use only organic compost - no mushroom compost or bone meal and better to use no chemical fertiliser
- Plant smaller bushy plants. They establish better and will not need staking
- Plant small groups of the same species, but keep it informal
- If possible, do not build walls or hard paths which will reflect heat
- Keep the soil cool by mulching. Mulch also helps to retain moisture
- Do not over-water. Adjust the irrigation with the seasons. Overwatering results in too rapid growth and weak lanky plants
- Go slow with fertilisers. Use Bounce Back, but sparingly, and never, ever dig it in
Tips from Stodels:
Proteas and ericas are spectacular during the winter months and once they’re established they will thrive without any attention on your part. But make sure you plant them in a place where they won’t be disturbed – they do not transplant well.
Here are some growing tips to get your fynbos off to a good start :
Proteas and ericas are spectacular during the winter months and once they’re established they will thrive without any attention on your part. But make sure you plant them in a place where they won’t be disturbed – they do not transplant well.
Here are some growing tips to get your fynbos off to a good start :
- In their natural habitat, members of the Proteaceae family grow in poor, well-draining soil that is slightly acidic. The plants like hot, dry summers and cold, wet winters.
- Poorly draining soil is the worst enemy of fynbos, as it causes the roots of the plants to rot. Prepare the soil well beforehand by mixing in a generous amount of well-decomposed compost and add some gypsum to break up clay soil, if necessary.
- Plant fynbos in full sun. If they are planted in partially sunny areas they will struggle to flower.
- Water the plants twice a week until they are well established. The plants will eventually become drought tolerant and will then only require watering once a week in the heat of summer.
- Mulch around the plants with straw, bark or leaves t o keep the soil cool and to discourage weeds from taking over.
- Take care not to disturb the roots of fynbos – this is especially important when pulling up weeds around the plant. Rather break off weeds if you think pulling them up will cause damage to the roots of your plants.
- Fynbos doesn’t require any feeding or fertilizing. Do not ever feed with bone meal, phosphates, mushroom compost or manure.
Kay Montgomery in Lifestyle IOL
Why fynbos? “Apart from the fact that it is so beautiful and easy to care for, planting fynbos is one way in which gardeners can help to promote and protect a rich and threatened indigenous flora. Planting fynbos can help to attract birds and butterflies to your garden, as well as other beautiful insects and mammals that have formed an intrinsic bond with fynbos over the centuries,” says Weedon.
The richness of fynbos species leaves one spoilt for choice in terms of what is available to plant in the garden. While proteas, pincushions, blushing bride and leucadendrons should also form the architectural focus of a fynbos garden, consider these plants as support flora depending on the type of garden theme you wish to pursue.
* Country garden: include plants such as agapanthus, wild iris (Dietes grandiflora or D Bicolour), tulbaghia, oxalis, pelargonium, Erica gracilis, buchu, watsonia, chasmanthe, Amaryllis belladonna, crinum, crocosmia, helichrysum, gazania, eriocephalus, barleria, orthosiphon, hemizygia, polygala, podalyria, hypoestes, plectranthus, carpobrotus and fairy crassula (Crassula multicava).
* Tropical garden: for the tropical look, stick to agapanthus, wild iris, oxalis, clivia, crinum, watsonia, plectranthus and hypoestes, and combine with a range of Cape reeds (Restionaceae). The shiny foliage of forest trees can also pick up the tropical feel. Try the bladdernut (Diospyros whyteana), the yellowwoods, Cape beech (Rapanea melanophloeos), milkwood (Sideroxylon inerme) and wild pomegranate (Burchellia bubalina).
Growing tips
Proteas, pincushions and leucadendrons need at least six hours or more sunshine a day. They also like well-drained, slightly acidic soil, so add plenty of acid compost to your planting holes to improve sandy soils and break up clay soils. Avoid adding phosphate to the soil and ensure that there is good drainage. Many of the new cultivars will survive in containers for several years and all cultivars do well in rockeries or raised beds that have good drainage.
Once established, proteas, pincushions and leucadendrons need little attention. A thick mulch is vital during the hot months. -
Why fynbos? “Apart from the fact that it is so beautiful and easy to care for, planting fynbos is one way in which gardeners can help to promote and protect a rich and threatened indigenous flora. Planting fynbos can help to attract birds and butterflies to your garden, as well as other beautiful insects and mammals that have formed an intrinsic bond with fynbos over the centuries,” says Weedon.
The richness of fynbos species leaves one spoilt for choice in terms of what is available to plant in the garden. While proteas, pincushions, blushing bride and leucadendrons should also form the architectural focus of a fynbos garden, consider these plants as support flora depending on the type of garden theme you wish to pursue.
* Country garden: include plants such as agapanthus, wild iris (Dietes grandiflora or D Bicolour), tulbaghia, oxalis, pelargonium, Erica gracilis, buchu, watsonia, chasmanthe, Amaryllis belladonna, crinum, crocosmia, helichrysum, gazania, eriocephalus, barleria, orthosiphon, hemizygia, polygala, podalyria, hypoestes, plectranthus, carpobrotus and fairy crassula (Crassula multicava).
* Tropical garden: for the tropical look, stick to agapanthus, wild iris, oxalis, clivia, crinum, watsonia, plectranthus and hypoestes, and combine with a range of Cape reeds (Restionaceae). The shiny foliage of forest trees can also pick up the tropical feel. Try the bladdernut (Diospyros whyteana), the yellowwoods, Cape beech (Rapanea melanophloeos), milkwood (Sideroxylon inerme) and wild pomegranate (Burchellia bubalina).
Growing tips
Proteas, pincushions and leucadendrons need at least six hours or more sunshine a day. They also like well-drained, slightly acidic soil, so add plenty of acid compost to your planting holes to improve sandy soils and break up clay soils. Avoid adding phosphate to the soil and ensure that there is good drainage. Many of the new cultivars will survive in containers for several years and all cultivars do well in rockeries or raised beds that have good drainage.
Once established, proteas, pincushions and leucadendrons need little attention. A thick mulch is vital during the hot months. -
